Just another Day

Just another Day

The farmers across the street load their scooters with milk cans. Cattle are prodded through the streets to their new location. Chickens crow out in the orange glow of the morning sun rising over the mountains, while patrons go in and out of the little corner shop selling sweet and spicy Thai food for breakfast. It’s just another day in rural Northern Thailand.

For me, it’s my last – at least for a little while. I pack my bags leaving behind several things which I hope to return to next fall. On the list; a pair of tennis shoes, two pairs of jeans, a couple shirts and some books. The first leg of my journey will only allow a maximum load of forty pounds.

Tomorrow I will fly from Chiang Mai to the international airport in Bangkok, hold out in a hotel for the night, and leave early the following day on my thirty-hour trip back across the planet.

Thailand hasn’t changed much in the five years since my last visit, and hopefully, it won’t change any time soon.

Sawadee

Broadcasting, Thai Style

Around seven in the morning, the daily news rings through the rural countryside via massive loudspeakers mounted on concrete utility poles. Throughout the day, there will be information such as election results, updates on the Royal family, and village meetings sent through the system.

Election Day was drawing near when I arrived in Thailand; a good opportunity to put the loudspeakers to work. This time, mounted on the top of trucks covered in campaign posters, the sound went mobile.

Every hour or so, I detected a faint noise in the mountain valley, which slowly became louder and louder, until the deafening sound passed by our front gate. The use of loudspeakers, along with vote-buying, seems to be the preferred method of campaigning around Mae On village.

Talking with local people, around 400 baht (around 12 dollars), seemed to be the going rate for the two biggest political parties. The local people we spoke with, to took the money, but did not vote for the party who coughed up the cash.

I wondered why vote-buying wasn’t exposed by the media since it was widely known by the public. The most common answer I got – the media would be in big trouble if they decided to report on this without concrete evidence, and currently, the people are not willing to come forward if there is media involved. So today in Thailand, as in many other developing countries, vote-buying stands.

Spirit House

From the grand palaces to the most primitive ramshackle dwellings, there is one thing Thai homes and businesses all have in common – the spirit house.

Buddhists do not believe in the existence of “God(s)” like in many other religions. The philosophy puts the emphasis on ones self and the ability to train ones own mind to achieve contentment and ultimate freedom from mental suffering. The power to achieve ultimate enlightenment, or nirvana, is simply within ones self and not in a contrived higher being.

On the other hand, much to my surprise, every Thai home or business is believed to be visited by spirits. It seems Thai people are very superstitious and ritualistic. Offerings are given to spirits in order to keep the peace. This is where the spirit house comes in.

The average spirit house looks like a miniature Buddhist temple. As in temples, incense and candles are lit in front of the spirit house. This is to create a more desirable place for the spirits to dwell; to draw them away from your house and into the mini-temple. Other gifts to the spirits include a clean glass of drinking water, a small portion of rice or food, and flowers to name a few. One should also remember to keep the spirit house clean and out of the shadow of the home or business.

It is crucial, when lighting the candles and incense, you offer in groups of five, seven or nine. I have yet to receive a concrete answer as to why these numbers are so important, but since our spirit house is near the window of my bedroom, I had better follow the instructions.

Sawadee